Owners are putting more thought than ever into the music playing through their speakers, sometimes tapping professionals for help.
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Simon Kim knows exactly how many beats per minute are in each song played in his restaurants.
During dinner service’s peak — around 10:30 p.m. at Cote, a Korean steakhouse in Manhattan, and 9:30 p.m. at Coqodaq, his Korean fried chicken restaurant just down the block — the songs range from 105 to 120 b.p.m.
“It’s like an orchestra session,” he said. You might hear “I’m Every Woman” by Chaka Khan (114 b.p.m.) or “Okay” by DJ Island (120 b.p.m.).
“We bring the crowd up, and then there is a crescendo, and then we peak, climax, and then we start to bring it down a little bit. There is a science behind it.”
Tempo has the power to make or break a dining experience. Slower music can encourage lingering, said Rita Aiello, a music psychologist and professor at New York University. “If they play fast music that is more energetic, it can get people out the door.”
Mr. Kim’s strategy is essential to establishing the vibe for customers. “When they are having a relaxed dinner early in the evening, if they have a really fast b.p.m., it will interrupt them,” he said. “They will have indigestion.”
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