Cooking
Weekend kitchen shenanigans to keep everyone festive and fed.
Good morning. One of the more satisfying wintertime weekend activities is the making of stock: beef, say, or chicken or vegetable. (Lobster if you’re fancy.) These come in handy when you want to make a risotto of uncommon flavor, amp up a soup or supercharge a gravy.
I’ll make the beef version this weekend — it’s Julia Moskin’s adaptation of a bone broth that the chef Marco Canora devised for his Brodo empire — and use it as the foundational bass line for Melissa Clark’s mushroom Bourguignon (above). Of course you could use mushroom stock instead, but I’m telling you: That beef stock is sublime.
What a fantastic recipe: two pounds of mixed, meaty mushrooms seared hard in a pot to offer an incredible depth of flavor, with pearl onions, leeks and carrots in a flour-thickened gravy made with the bone broth, red wine and tomato paste. A little tamari rounds everything out and fried chanterelles go over the top at the end, with a sprinkling of smoked paprika and chopped parsley. Serve over egg noodles or with polenta.
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Mushroom Bourguignon
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Other weekend kitchen shenanigans as we head into the holidays: a batch of this marvelous ginger sesame granola, either to package as gifts or to snack on with yogurt while the family opens gifts; and these make-ahead coquilles St.-Jacques to serve on Christmas Eve.
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