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If the comment section is to be believed, no one really knows.
We recently had a fashion debate in the InStyle office. “I feel like we’re all wearing sundresses,” said one editor. “I guess I could see that for you,” said another. I respectfully disputed both, as none of the dresses worn fit the image of the “perfect sundress” in my head: white, sleeveless, and lighter than air.
Despite years spent writing about fashion, I somehow failed to find the words to describe exactly what I meant by the term. Regardless of the eclectic mix of fabrics, cuts, and colors in the room, no one could agree on what (or which of our looks) constituted a sundress. This, I soon discovered, was something of a universal experience. Search “sundress” on TikTok, and you’ll find video after video detailing summer’s favorite frock—why we love them, how they relate to the performance of femininity, and many attempts at curating the best of the best to shop online.
What do we talk about when we talk about sundresses? Is there a criteria that singularly defines the piece? Or, is it more of a vibe, closer to a feeling than a garment? To get to the bottom of the sundress discourse, I tapped industry experts, including trend predictors, designers, and, of course, a few viral TikTok commentators, to help refine and define the elusive garment. Ahead, an exhaustive examination of the sundress in 2024.
8 Ways to Wear a Sundress
How We Got Here
For those who are not extraordinarily online, here’s a quick primer on sundress discourse. Back in May—the undisputed beginning of “sundress season”—the topic went viral thanks to a few male fans, who cited the look as their favorite outfit for women.
As you can imagine, ladies responded with critiques on the male gaze and treatise on sundresses as they relate to the hetero hell that is dating in 2024 (in case you haven’t heard, it’s hard out there). The conversation culminated in a weeklong discussion on gender roles, norms, and unfair expectations around performing femininity (this Vox explainer breaks it down nicely). The takeaway? Clearly, the sundress does come with some gender-role baggage, but that doesn’t mean one can’t be worn as a celebration of femininity. You decide your own sundress discourse. After all, in 90-degree heat, sometimes nothing else will do.
Combing through those divided comment sections and countless TikTok stitches, another conundrum emerged. Despite all the analysis, it seems no one could agree on even the most basic facts of the matter: What even is a sundress?
The Platonic Ideal of a Sundress
Long or short? Fitted or flowing? White or colorful? The Internet can’t seem to decide—and neither can the fashion industry. Of the many TikToks I watched and stylish experts I interviewed, everyone had a different answer about their perfect sundress. Mine happens to be something mid-length, made of poplin, and bright white, like this little For Love and Lemons number, which makes the case for sundress season being less about a garment and more of a projection.
A few sundress elements are relatively universal: summery (duh!), light fabrics (for withstanding the heat), and color (the brighter and lighter, the better). Caroline Huang Maguire, Shopbop’s longtime fashion director, puts it simply, “A sundress is lightweight and airy, usually made with cotton or linen fabrics. It’s a dress made for looking pretty while spending time in the sun.”
Whatever your definition, however, there’s no denying the style’s viral appeal. According to vintage retailer Depop, searches for sundresses have increased an impressive 2,485 percent since the start of the year. And on Shopbop, Maguire says their customer favors “a strapless or slip style” like En Saison’s polka-dotted Josephine Dress or Borgo de Nor’s Merle Cotton Dress in Matisse blue.
Sundresses Across Cultures
A lot of the confusion surrounding the ephemeral sundress is cultural, explains Depop Trend Specialist Agus Panzoni. “What people have in mind when they say ‘sundress’ today depends on their cultural surroundings, personal style, and current trends,” she says, adding that “some might describe them as exclusively milkmaid dresses, others as body-con dresses.”
For example, Black creators were quick to point out that today’s “sundress season” arguably includes more bodycon styles that still follow the light, breathable, and colorful model. As TikTok user @renaissanceroni captioned her viral video on the subject, “If I can wear it to church without a cardigan, it doesn’t apply to sundress season.”
However, fit expert @thebilliondollarfit clarified that a sundress should be sleeveless, relatively low cut, fitted at the bodice, and loose rather than tight at the bottom. From a technical design perspective, her set of criteria is thoroughly convincing. The question is, when, exactly, does the bodycon-as-sundress party reach critical mass and shift the Overton window on sundresses? That is still up for interpretation.
Lurell Walker, founder of Lurelly and the creator of several viral dress designs of her own, says that taking inspiration from her heritage and giving the sundress a modern twist is all part of the fun. “Growing up in Jamaica, it was summer almost all year round, so sundresses were definitely our thing! I grew up seeing my mother dressed in light linens and floral sundresses; I loved the way they looked on her,” she says.
The great sundress debate can actually be a source of creativity, as it allows for a multitude of interpretations. “I think we all have different definitions of a sundress because of our own personal styles and cultures,” says Walker. “My ideal sundress a couple of years ago would have been off-the-shoulder linen with buttons down the center, but today, I’m really into silks—so, my definition has changed, you could say.”
A Sunny Fashion History
According to fashion historian Keren Ben-Horin, the sundress has its roots in 1940s post-war America. “People not only had more money to spend, but they also had more leisure time and new opportunities to wear clothing for specific settings,” Ben-Horin says. “For example, the advent of air travel expedited the growth of the market for resort collections, including additions of garment categories like beach coverups, as well as use of fabrics that could be easily packed and worn.”
The precursor to the sundress were designs that prioritized comfort, like Claire McCardell’s 1930s “Monastic Dress” and sportswear of the 1940s, which paved the way for the modern iteration. Lilly Pulitzer and her Palm Beach prints, though, really brought the style to the forefront, says Panzoni. “Lilly Pulitzer further popularized the style in the 1960s with her brightly colored, casual dresses,” she notes. “Since then, the same concept has held true for sundresses: uninhibited and a symbol of feminine freedom.”
Today, the sundress clearly has evolved past its post-war origins. “As the culture, in general, is less formal, and with the COVID pandemic even further eroding the previously strict demarcation between formal and informal settings, many of the dress categories lost their original meaning,” says Ben-Horin. That definition will no doubt continue to shift and expand with the times.
The Future of the Sundress
The viral milkmaid dress, Kim Kardashian’s Skims empire, and TikTok’s recent coquette trend have all influenced what we mean when we say sundress. And if everyone has their own definition, perhaps the sundress is more about channeling a vibe than finding a particular fabric or cut. It’s the feeling of a summer breeze, the way cotton lays on your skin, or the relief of knowing melted ice cream comes out of machine-washable poplin. Sundress is, in short, a state of mind.
After all, that free spirit is what has made the sundress a closet staple for decades rather than a passing trend. “When it comes to choosing one’s summer wardrobe, it’s important to keep in mind the essence of what made the sundress popular in the first place," says Panzoni, "a representation of free-spirited dressing rather than one defined by the male gaze.”