Endlessly adaptable, tea cakes have long offered bakers across the country a moment of restoration.
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The tea cake rarely gets its flowers. It’s not flashy or trendy. It doesn’t stand out against a display of glistening baked goods, doesn’t hint at its flavor (or any flavor) with its slightly browned, puffed top.
But beneath its humble exterior is a deep history: Tea cakes were born of necessity and ingenuity and have traveled miles and centuries, refined on and perfected by a long line of cooks. They are, in spite of their long journey, an invitation to rest, to stop for a mug of coffee or tea, and connect.
Recipe: Tea Cakes
Pinpointing the origin of tea cakes is hard, but those most intimately familiar with its history agree that enslaved people on plantations were responsible for the American iteration, which evolved from browned, yeasted British tea cakes and are closely related to crumbly jumble cookies. This newer version, made without yeast, relies on baking soda or baking powder for lift with the addition of sweeteners like molasses or sugar, and a rich fat like lard or butter.
Once freed, formerly enslaved African Americans took the recipe — along with many others — to their new homes, and made them for their own families. The tea cakes eventually made their way to the North both as part of the Underground Railroad and later during the Great Migration.
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