The Art of Fragrant Storytelling: An Interview With Benjamin Sachs, Founder of Superfumista

Benjamin Sachs’ passion for fragrances began in childhood, and it has remained a driving force in his life. In 2019, he founded his perfume label, Superfumista, to bring his vision of personalized fragrance creations to life. At the heart of Superfumista is an innovative app that empowers customers to craft their own unique scents. In addition to the app, the label also offers an exclusive collection of special fragrance creations. In an interview, Ben, as he prefers to be called, provides insights into his personal journey, the creative process behind Superfumista and the sources of inspiration for unique creations.

Every perfume we create is truly the expression of a unique story—the story of the person who wears it. Whether they are passionate about perfume or not, our clients all have an olfactory story to tell, and our mission is to help them translate that story into notes, images, and words, to create a fragrance that reflects their desires and identity.

Ben

Can you tell us about your personal journey? What sparked your interest in fragrances?

Thank you, Mikayla, for inviting me to revisit these sweet (and distant) memories! I remember being curious about smells and sensitive to textures from a very young age. A few objects stand out that might evoke memories for others: the soft vinyl figurines from the 80s, the distinct scent of opening a can of tennis balls, or the strawberry-scented eraser in a classmate’s pencil case. My love for flowers also began early—I vividly recall the lilac branches my parents would cut each year so I could bring a bouquet to my teachers. The rich culinary world of my maternal grandmother, filled with the flavors of her native Morocco, played a crucial role in awakening my olfactory senses.

As a child, I would try to identify and remember the perfumes worn by the women I encountered. Unknowingly, they introduced me to the world of perfumery and its various brands. What began as an unconscious, yet addictive, exercise in memory and recognition quickly grew into a passion. I eagerly collected every perfume sample and carefully stored them in … shoeboxes! This passion eventually led me to explore the infinite world of perfumery ingredients, a journey that I continue every day with an almost insatiable curiosity.

Another passion and form of expression has also marked my journey into perfumery: music. My creative passion led me to songwriting at a very young age, where I learnt the art of arranging – assembling notes, instruments and voices and mixing them to create harmony. This experience has profoundly shaped my sensibility as a perfumer, where each ingredient, each olfactory note, must be seamlessly integrated into a balanced and evocative composition.

Perfumer Ben in his element

In 2019, you launched your own perfume label. What are the values and visions behind Superfumista?

I’ve always been fascinated by the intricate connections between emotions and individuals. For years, I had been creating bespoke perfumes for my close circle. These encounters were not just about creativity—they were also a quest for liberation, both for the people I was creating for and for myself. Bespoke perfumery offers a remarkable opportunity to explore a realm of possibilities, free from fleeting trends or the pressures of uniform marketing. It is an exploration of the palette of materials and emotions, staying true to the authentic expression of desires and individual stories.

As the demand for these unique creations increased, I began to explore the options on the market and realised how limited they were. On the one hand, there were services reserved for an elite, offering truly bespoke creations that were very expensive and created by major houses or renowned perfumers. On the other hand, there were so-called personalised perfumes, which were often presented as bespoke but were in fact blends of existing bases, sometimes customised with the addition of a few extra ingredients.

From this realization, the idea for Superfumista was born. I wanted to create an innovative service that was not only financially accessible but also geographically.  Superfumista allows anyone, no matter where they are, to create their own perfume by combining the expertise of a perfumer with the convenience of a mobile app. We believe in the value of authenticity: every perfume we create is truly the expression of a unique story—the story of the person who wears it. Whether they are passionate about perfume or not, our clients all have an olfactory story to tell, and our mission is to help them translate that story into notes, images, and words, to create a fragrance that reflects their desires and identity.

Our vision is to democratize bespoke perfumery by offering a fragrance creation experience that is accessible both geographically, through the app and technology, and philosophically, with an artisanal approach that respects and celebrates the individuality of each person.

In the first step of creating a customised fragrance, users are asked to describe their project, answer questions about their fragrance preferences and upload files. What types of files are frequently uploaded and how do they contribute to the development of a fragrance?

The creation process begins with a descriptive phase where the user is guided to express their preferences and inspirations. This includes sharing images, words and, of course, evoking personal memories. Users can contribute visuals to build a mood board for their project, helping them to frame and articulate their desires and personality.

Users can also mention existing or discontinued reference perfumes. We use this information to better understand the fragrance they are aiming for, without of course attempting to replicate these perfumes – this would undermine the bespoke nature of the creation.

Some customers go even further and send us photos they’ve taken on the street, selfies or even art they’ve created, such as paintings. Musical references and sometimes even playlists are often a rich source of inspiration for them and us.

The intuitive mood board – a visual representation of fragrance preferences

Next, the customer can use a scent carousel featuring scent families and materials to create their own perfume. What should customers consider when selecting to create a balanced perfume that also reflects their personality?

The composition phase takes place via the “scent carousel”, which provides access to around 150 materials organised into 16 olfactory families. Depending on their level of expertise, users can either select general families such as floral or woody, or choose specific notes with complete creative freedom. The aim is not to limit the process to a traditional olfactory pyramid structure of top, heart and base notes. What matters most to me is the coherence of the olfactory narrative over time, even more so through its evaporation curve.

On the basis of the selected notes and, above all, our exchanges in the chat, we then translate and harmonise these choices during the formulation phase, paying particular attention to the often non-linear evolution of the fragrance and its transitions in order to accurately reflect a specific personality or idea.

The “carousel of scents” – an interactive tool with over 150 fragrance materials organised into 16 olfactory families 

In the third step, customers can compare formulations sent to them by Superfumista. How many fragrance versions do customers receive for selection? Are there opportunities to personally interact with a perfumer to better communicate their ideas and desires?

Each project presents its own set of challenges, particularly as the interaction with the client takes place at a distance, within a relatively short time frame, and in an area deeply tied to intimacy and emotion. Smooth communication is crucial to the success of a bespoke perfume, so we have designed an iterative and collaborative creation process that allows for a personalised exchange where every detail is considered.

We offer clients the opportunity to discuss their ideas directly with a dedicated perfumer using the chat feature in our app. We take the time to ask questions, clarify their thoughts and ensure that the final fragrance meets their expectations. Depending on the journey chosen, clients receive several versions of their fragrance to compare – for example, 2 versions plus 1 additional version, or 3 initial versions followed by 3 additional versions.

Some clients find their perfect fragrance in the first set of proposals, while others may ask for adjustments, allowing us to rework and send out additional formulations. Beyond our commitment to responsiveness, we strive to approach each project with an open mind. By revealing the behind-the-scenes process of creating a perfume, we aim to provide an educational experience that remains enjoyable, especially for enthusiasts.

Do you have a memorable or fascinating customer request for a custom fragrance? How was the request fulfilled?

One of the most memorable requests came a few months after the launch of the Superfumista app. Without revealing too much, the rather vague brief aimed to evoke the scent of an angel’s sex. At the time, I described this project as “a cerebral and olfactory challenge.”

This type of request may sound surprising or unconventional, but it aligns perfectly with our pursuit of freedom and originality in the creative process. We then worked from the few lines of the brief, the notes selected on the app and four enigmatic photos taken and sent by the client. These elements fed our moodboard and inspiration, enriched by a few exchanges with the client in chat.

The greatest reward for Samuele, my apprentice at the time, and for me was the final message we received on the chat at the end of the experience: “Thank you for your creation. All the feedback around me confirms that you have achieved the impossible“.

In addition to the customised fragrances, Superfumista also offers various perfumes, including creations such as the woody-fruity fragrance ‘Boozy Boy’, which is intended to embody the duality between gentleman and bad boy. How exactly is this duality reflected in the various nuances?

From the outset, we wanted to offer a collection of perfumes derived from bespoke projects, in collaboration with the individuals behind those projects. In a way, we wanted to provide an alternative to the traditional approach to perfumery and bring to light the stories of people who have touched us through the narrative conveyed by their fragrance.

This collection develops with almost total creative freedom, and each unique fragrance seems to have the potential to resonate with others. We called it the “SuperfumistaR collection” because we highlight each person as the star of their own fragrance. “Boozy Boy” is the fourth in the series. The notion of duality was indeed central to the person who entrusted us with this project, with its decidedly club and VSOP ambience: a quest for sophistication, elegance and refinement on the one hand, and a bold, rebellious and audacious presence on the other.

For this olfactory accomplice with an absolutely spirited character (rum, cognac), oakwood extract was essential in creating the fragrance. Its warm, rich and complex profile allowed us to combine warm, dark and ambery notes with the robustness of wood, the spicy character (cinnamon, cloves, black pepper) and also a subtle fruity sweetness (cocoa, plum and tonka bean).

“Boozy Boy” combines rich notes of rum, oak and spices

“10 out of 11 perfumes from the “SuperfumistaR collection”

The perfume “Tuberotic” captures the majestic and lush essence of tuberose. What lies beneath the description of “Tuberotic” as ‘an intimate and ultimate playground, where what is revealed has not yet fully disclosed itself’?

“Tuberotic” is crafted as an intimate and deeply sensual olfactory experience. I particularly appreciated the floral challenge of this ‘unisex’ project, because tuberose is a note that rarely leaves anyone indifferent. The desired white flower had to gradually reveal itself with a certain magnetism, like a bare shoulder hinting at the promise of hidden depths. We wanted to create a tuberose that embodies a carnal promise, one that is not fully revealed in the initial notes.

This perfume is a slow dance of unveiling, where each layer unfolds with magnetic allure over time. Angelica and bergamot open the composition with a herbaceous and sparkling freshness, while the heart unveils a bouquet of white flowers dominated by tuberose and jasmine. Vanilla and musk add a creamy and velvety dimension, highlighting the enveloping and sensual aspect of the fragrance.

Finally, black tea introduces an unexpected and intriguing touch, transforming this floral fragrance into a sophisticated unisex composition, perfect for those who seek to express their personality through a perfume that evolves and gradually reveals itself over time.

‘Tuberotic’ slowly reveals the luxurious and seductive note of tuberose

“Infra Rose” is a floral fragrance that combines the fruity and sparkling notes of lychee and champagne rosé with delicate rose petals. It’s described as an ‘enchanting accomplice’ that evokes a mischievous and playful smile. What was the inspiration behind the creation of the fragrance?

The references for the “Infra Rose” brief could have been intimidating – “Calèche” by Hermès, “No. 5” by Chanel, just to name a few. However, the beauty of this project, initiated by someone dear to me, lies in the fact that it wasn’t strictly based on these iconic perfumes that inspire admiration and humility.

The inspiration came from a lively summer evening where “laughter echoes and champagne bubbles sparkle under the stars”, setting the scene with very specific memories and a deeply personal vision of the olfactory atmosphere. The fragrance opens with fruity and sparkling notes of lychee and rosé champagne, creating a festive and luminous atmosphere. We aimed to reveal a vegetal, fresh and structured rose, with classic elegance and velvety petals. The musky and woody base, supported by notes of sandalwood and white musk, adds a touch of sophistication and mystery.

“Infra Rose” is a fragrance that embodies both joie de vivre and subtlety, perfect for those who love floral perfumes with a fruity and sparkling twist. This creation seeks to capture the essence of timeless elegance with a hint of playfulness.

“Infra Rose – a combination of sparkling lychee, champagne rosé and  rose petals

What are your plans for the future of Superfumista? Are there plans to expand technology or product range?

These first four years have been particularly exhilarating, with a fast-paced rhythm: the bespoke perfume service mobile app, the 11 perfumes in the “SuperfumistaR collection” … and a few other projects, as we are never short of ideas or enthusiasm! As for the mobile application, my ambition is to use AI and machine learning while continuing to offer a human, creative and artisanal experience.

Research has made significant advances in understanding the connections between scents and emotions, and the Superfumista app is an ideal playground as we meticulously study the expression of intimate fragrance projects and their interpretation and translation into perfume.

These developments are costly and require finding the right partners (research labs, developers and investors) who are committed to preserving the bespoke service that we hold so dear and that is still all too rare. Guided by our desire to continue showcasing the projects of perfumistas, while remaining true to our artisanal approach and independence, we will enrich our perfume collection with new creations from the end of 2024.

We are particularly keen to highlight this unique opportunity for individuals to create and market their own perfume with Superfumista. At a time when the need for personalisation is growing, but is often limited to a few customisation options that do not necessarily aim at individualisation, the experience we offer stands out by truly putting people at the centre of the creative process, allowing them to create a fragrance that fully expresses their identity and share it with the world in an authentic way.

At the same time, we plan to expand our distribution network in France and Europe, including physical stores. Again, it’s a question of finding the right partners, because we want to grow thoughtfully, without rushing, and continue to enjoy the wonderful craft of creating unique perfumes for passionate and inspiring people.