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Shea butter is a tried-and-true hair-care ingredient for a reason. “It's well-loved and very beneficial in many cosmetic items from skin to hair,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Anna Chacon. “It's a great source of vitamins and fatty acids, which makes it a great hydrator that can soften and smooth hair strands.”
Meet the expert
- Andrew Fitzsimons is a celebrity hairstylist and founder of Andrew Fitzsimons Hair. Dr. Candace Spann, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Las Vegas and founder of Retress. Dr. Anna Chacon, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami.
From its benefits to how best to incorporate it into your routine, here’s everything you need to know about shea butter.
What Is Shea Butter?
“Shea butter is derived from the nuts of the shea tree,” says celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons. “It has been used as a cosmetic ingredient for centuries due to its high concentration of vitamins and fatty acids and smooth texture.”
What Are the Benefits of Shea Butter for Hair?
Shea butter benefits hair thanks to its natural moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. “It also softens, adds shine, and smooths the hair's appearance,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Anna Chacon. “It protects the hair by helping prevent hair breakage and damage because hair is stronger and hydrated after use.”
She adds that shea butter can help aid scalp health, as its rich fatty acids supply moisture and help keep dryness and flakiness at bay.
Can All Hair Types Use Shea Butter?
Fitzsimons notes that most hair types can use shea butter. Still, it's especially beneficial for coily and curly textures, as it “helps seal in hydration, prevents tangles and flyaways, and keeps the hair looking healthy and shiny,” he says. Just like hair oils, shea butter penetrates the hair by hydrating from within and coating the cuticle to trap moisture.
For those with fine and/or thin hair types, shea butter can cause buildup and weigh the hair down, so you should use a very small amount to enjoy the benefits.
How Do You Apply Shea Butter on Hair?
According to Fitzsimons, shea butter can be used as a pre-shampoo treatment, leave-in conditioner, hair mask, and styling treatment. “For use as a scalp treatment, use a small amount and section the hair, massaging into the scalp in a circular motion,” says Fitzsimons. “You can comb the remaining product through and leave it for up to an hour as a mask before shampooing. For styling, you can smooth dry or frizzy hair by running a small amount through problem areas after washing. It is also great as a pre-heat styling protectant.”
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jody Alpert Levine recommends rubbing shea butter in your hands until it melts into an oil and applying it to your hair in sections. “You can also leave the shea butter in or rinse it out,” says Levine. She also notes that a wide-tooth comb can spread the shea butter evenly throughout your hair. “Applying shea butter to damp hair makes it easier to spread evenly throughout your hair and lock in moisture.” Dr. Spann recommends letting shea butter sit in your hair for 10-30 minutes and then using a gentle shampoo to wash it out.
When applying shea butter to your hair, avoid putting in too much. “Applying excess shea butter can cause a greasy, weighed-down appearance and make the hair feel heavy or sticky,” says Fitzsimons. “It can also cause buildup, leading to clogged pores, which may prevent moisture from penetrating the hair shaft, leading to dryness and breakage.” The celebrity hairstylist says using a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup intermittently can be beneficial.
Can Shea Butter Promote Hair Growth?
“Shea butter itself is not proven to regrow hair, but can support hair health and create an environment for conducive hair growth by providing nutrients and protecting and moisturizing the hair and scalp,” explains Fitzsimons.
How Often Should You Use Shea Butter?
You should always read the label and follow instructions regarding hairstyling products containing shea butter. But generally speaking, Fitzsimons recommends using shea butter as a deep conditioner twice weekly for damaged and dry hair. If you’re experiencing oily hair, you can use it “sparingly every two weeks to see benefits while avoiding weighing the hair down,” he adds. Curly and coily hair can benefit from regular usage two times a week.
After using shea butter in your hair for a few weeks, benefits include improved moisture, reduced frizz, enhanced softness, repaired damage, and improved scalp health. But remember: Consistency is key to seeing results, especially for hydration.