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In the ever-evolving world of hair care trends, one luxurious treatment that stands out for its transformative effects is the hot oil treatment. Whether you’re battling frizz, dryness or damage, this age-old treatment promises to revitalize your locks with a deep infusion of nourishment. But what exactly is a hot oil treatment, and how does it work its magic on your hair? According to hairstylist and board-certified trichologist Keka Heron, a hot oil treatment is a deep-conditioning process where warmed oil is applied to clean hair and scalp to provide intense hydration and nourishment. The heat allows the oil to penetrate the hair shaft and scalp more effectively, offering long-lasting benefits. Below, we explore the full range of benefits and guide you through how to perform a hot oil treatment yourself.
Meet the expert
- Keka Heron, is a hair stylist and trichologist. Dharius Thomas is a celebrity hairstylist whose clients include Kehlani and Winnie Harlow.
Benefits of Hot Oil Treatments
Hot oil hair treatments infuse moisture into the hair, strengthening it with nourishing oils that help prevent breakage caused by dryness. “The treatment strengthens the hair from the root to the ends of the hair shaft and is particularly good for extremely dry hair, color-treated hair or someone who's always in dry heat,” explains celebrity hairstylist Dharius Thomas.
Risks and Safety Tips
To avoid damaging your hair or scalp during a hot oil treatment, our experts say it’s important to test out the temperature of the oil. Always ensure the oil is warm, not hot, to avoid burning your scalp. Heat the oil gently and test it on your wrist before applying it to your hair.
If you suffer from seborrheic dermatitis or scalp eczema, applying oil can potentially worsen the condition. “Hot oil treatments are not recommended for any scalp issues involving inflammation, as they may aggravate the symptoms,” explains Heron. It’s always best to do a patch test, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies, test a small amount of oil on a small area of your scalp or skin to check for any adverse reactions before doing the full treatment.
Hair Type Considerations
“Hot oil treatments are most beneficial for people with textured hair, particularly curly or coily hair types. This is because the natural oils (sebum) from the scalp have a harder time reaching the ends of the hair shaft, which leads to dryness and split ends more quickly,” explains Thomas. “For those with straighter hair, such as Caucasian or Asian hair types, these treatments are often unnecessary, as their hair tends to get oily more quickly. While it may add shine, it could leave the hair looking greasy over time. Overall, hot oil treatments are ideal for individuals with textured or curly hair who struggle with moisture retention.”
How to DIY a Hot Oil Treatment
Below, our experts have shared a few simple steps to do a hot oil treatment at home.
Step 1: Choose Your Oil
Pick a high-quality oil such as coconut, olive, argan, jojoba, or avocado oil. You can also use a blend of oils, or a premade treatment. Here are some of the best hair oils to choose from.
Step 2: Prepare the Oil
Pour 4-5 tablespoons of oil into a heat-safe bowl, adjusting the amount based on your hair length and thickness. Warm the oil using one of the following methods.
- Microwave: Heat the oil for 10-15 seconds. Stovetop: Place the oil in a bowl and warm it in a pot of hot water (double-boiler style) until it’s warm but not hot.
Make sure the oil is warm to the touch but not too hot to avoid burning your scalp. Test it on your wrist before applying.
Step 3: Prep Your Hair
Start with clean, damp hair. “You can wash your hair beforehand and follow with a deep conditioner,” explains Thomas. Alternatively, you can lightly mist the hair with water to open the cuticles for better absorption. “It's best to do a hot oil treatment while the hair is wet, that way, the hair shafts are open and it can receive all the moisture you need. I would never apply a hot oil treatment to dry or dirty hair,” adds Thomas.
Step 4: Apply the Oil
Section your hair into 2-4 parts for easier application. “Starting at the scalp, massage in the oil using circular motions. Work the oil through your hair, focusing on the ends where the hair tends to be driest,” says Heron.
Step 5: Let It Penetrate
Sit under a dryer, cover your hair with a shower cap or wrap it in a warm towel to retain heat and allow the oil to penetrate. Leave the oil on for 15-30 minutes. You can extend the time if your hair is extremely dry or damaged.
Step 6: Rinse and Wash
After the treatment, rinse your hair thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove excess oil. “Follow with a gentle shampoo to remove excess oil and avoid greasiness. Condition as usual,” says Heron.
Step 7: Dry and Style
Let your hair air dry or style it as you normally would. You should notice smoother, shinier and more hydrated hair!
Frequently Asked Questions
- What does a hot oil treatment do to your hair?
The main benefit of a hot oil treatment is to deeply moisturize the hair, helping to strengthen it and prevent breakage caused by dryness. “The nourishing oils work to fortify the hair from root to tip, enhancing its overall resilience and health,” says Thomas.
How often should you do a hot oil treatment?
How often you do a hot oil treatment really depends on your hair type, condition, and specific needs. Our experts typically recommend twice a month for dry hair, but say you can adjust the frequency depending on how your hair responds to the treatment.
How do you do a hot oil treatment on natural hair?
“Since natural hair can vary in texture and thickness, it’s important to approach it with care, especially for those with 4b/4c hair,” says Thomas. “For this type of hair, I recommend working in sections. Start by dividing the hair into smaller parts and focus on the areas that are the driest first. This allows the oil to penetrate deeply and provide much-needed moisture where it's most needed. By working section by section, you ensure every part of the hair gets moisture and the full benefit of the treatment, which is especially crucial for thicker, coarser textures.”