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Though frustrating, it's actually a sign that it's working.
Great for fine lines, uneven texture, acne, large pores, and dark spots, retinol is truly a jack of all trades that's deserving of the hype.
Retinol and other retinoids are some of our most widely researched and highly effective skin-care ingredients. But such a potent product isn’t without side effects. Anyone who has gone down a retinol rabbit hole online has likely been warned about the dreaded retinol purge. It’s a common, if unsavory, side effect. Hadley King, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist, estimates that about 20 percent of people experience retinol purges. But fear not—it’s not inevitable, and when it does happen, it’s temporary.
Sometimes also referred to as the “retinol uglies,” the purge describes breakouts that happen during the first few weeks of retinoid use. Though retinoids can treat acne, sometimes the skin gets worse before it gets better. “The retinol is bringing out all the potential acne that’s brewing underneath the skin,” says Ruth Jobarteh, M.D., a board-certified New York-based dermatologist.
Meet the expert
- Ruth Jobarteh, M.D., FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. Joshua Zeichner, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist and the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of Dermatology. Hadley King, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist and a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.
Why it Happens
Retinoids work by increasing skin cell turnover, revealing new layers of skin and acting "like pipe cleaners to keep the pores clear," says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. But during the first few weeks of retinoid use, the process is suddenly sped up, bringing the good with the bad. "All of the blockages that you have within the skin that naturally would come to the surface slowly, it speeds up that process," says Dr. Zeichner.
As frustrating as this may be, it's actually a sign that the retinoids are working. "Before the new healthy skin cells can cycle to the surface, excess sebum and dead skin cells rise to the top first," says Dr.King.
How Long Retinol Purging lasts
Signs of purging will usually appear within 2-4 weeks after you begin using retinoids, and can last for up to a month. That's because a full skin cell cycle is 28 days, and purging usually subsides once it's complete, Dr. King explains. If it lasts longer than six weeks, she says to consult your dermatologist.
What Retinol Purging Looks Like
Symptoms of the purge include blackheads, whiteheads, papules (small raised bumps), and pustules (bumps with white or yellow heads), plus dry, peeling skin, Dr. King says. Unlike a regular breakout, the blemishes that surface during a retinol purge will be uniform. “It all looks the same, like a sea of bumps as opposed to more hormonal acne where you’re getting fewer larger pimples or pimples in different stages,” says Dr. Zeichner.
What to Do
As frustrating as a purge period can be, experts say to stick with your retinol. "The blockages have only one place to go, and that's out," Dr. Zeichner says. "And if you stop and then your skin calms down and you start using it again, you're just going to go through the same experience."
Apply your retinol using Dr. Zeichner's "connect the dots method:" put a pea-sized amount on your finger, dab it on your forehead, chin, and each cheek, and then rub it in to connect each dot.
It's important to introduce retinoids slowly and keep the rest of your routine gentle, Dr. King says. Dr. Zeichner has patients start by applying retinoids every other night for two weeks, then two nights on and one night off for two weeks, eventually working up to every night. Applying a moisturizer over the retinoid can help soothe irritation, and those with extra sensitive skin can even apply the moisturizer first.
Stick with this routine and the breakouts will give way to clearer, smoother skin than before. As Dr. Zeichner says, "The benefit outweighs the hurdle."