Contemporary takes on French roll hair combine the throwback appeal of the ’90s style with present tense ease. Try these 16 variations.

In case you needed further confirmation that the 1990s resurgence is here to stay, French roll hair is having a moment. A glamorous big sister to the French twist, the roll features a confection-like bun positioned atop the twist, and it’s currently taking over TikTok.

“It carries a kind of elegance that is timeless, and in 2024, it has experienced a resurgence with a relaxed, modern twist,” says hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons of the roll. “It’s quite a flattering hairstyle, framing the face beautifully while elongating the neck.” And though it does come with a done-up quality, Fitzsimons notes that the style can be dressed down, offered texture, and accessorized for a personalized take.

While French twists began making the runway rounds last fall—with hairstylist Guido Palau reimagining the swept-up style for Dior’s SS24 runway—the revamped French roll offers an homage to Black women like Whitney Houston who popularized the look in the ’90s. In the ’20s, though, idiosyncrasies in texture, finish, accessories, and more make for an updo that’s both retro and entirely fresh.

"A French roll should look effortless yet intentional," says Fitzsimons. The hairstylist suggests starting with a low ponytail and twisting upwards, tucking loose ends into the roll before securing the style with bobby pins (crisscrossed for extra hold). "Pull a few strands at your face for framing, and f you’re going for a sleek look, use a touch of serum for some subtle shine."

Here, 16 French rolls to inspire your new favorite pin-up.

Finger Wave French Roll

The innate elegance of the French roll lends well to similarly glamorous detailing. Furnishing your updo with a finger wave—either subtle or exaggerated and serpentine—creates a scene-stealing and sculptural style.

Floral French Roll

“As always, prep is everything,” says Fitzsimons. “Start with a texturizing spray like the Andrew Fitzsimons Apres Sexe Texturizing Spray to add grip and volume, especially for fine or silky hair.” And once your finished style is in place, consider finishing with a selection of whimsical accessories, like these shimmering floral pins.

Mussed French Roll

Though '90s French rolls feature a perfectly polished approach, there's something to be said for a hint of mussed romance. After all, what's more French than beautiful nonchalance?

Bouffant French Roll

Fitzsimons recommends teasing the roots at the crown of your head for a barely-there lift. For fans of a throwback look with roots in the '60s rather than the '90s, take said lift to the next level by creating a bumped-up bouffant.

Ringlet French Roll

The classic French roll, but give it ringlets. This high-shine style screams 1990s, with curled tendrils, ends, and edges providing a soft and luxurious touch.

Boho French Roll

Straying away from the flawless French roll leaves room for some free-spirited bohemia. Positioned low and with a wealth of Fitzsimons prescribed teasing, this twist-and-tuck is an understated take on the style.

Loose Ends French Roll

Yearning for a bit of French roll rebellion? Try a twist with no tuck, pinning your loose ends along the style and finishing at the base of the style to create the illusion (or rather, the reinterpretation) of a low ponytail. Full fringe and loose tendrils offer a sense of balance to this contemporary updo.

Full-On French Roll

Ah, a prototypal, R&B era French roll. Rather than more understated options that feature a rolled bun that finishes at, or just below, the crown, this referential version comes with a bun that positioned atop the head.

Woven French Roll

Structural styles need not sacrifice in softness. This French roll is sumptuous, sculptural, and pinned perfectly in place. "To lock the style in place without making it look too stiff, lightly mist some hairspray around the head, making sure not to concentrate too much product in one area," says Fitzsimons.

Piecey French Roll

Piecey and pinned to one side, this rolls slightly messy nature and zhuzhed texture appears almost knotty at the back. Its mussed and matte finish and height owe at least a little something to Amy Winehouse.

Fountain French Roll

Should you prefer your roll slightly less done, leaving the ends to spray in soft fountain fashion is an alternate option. The unfinished detail calls the claw-clipped twists of of the 1990s (and today) to mind, the pinned portion providing the style with an air of sophistication.

Sky-High French Roll

A French roll, but make it a beehive. Hyperbolic volume, sweeps of long, parted fringe, and a crown teased up to impressive heights, with subtle waves and flyaways make for a cool and retro twist.

Prom Night French

Modernizing a French roll is as simple as piling the twist-back with a tumble of soft curls. Loosely pinned and left to spiral down, the updo blends contemporary luxury with '90s prom, the look framed by a thick, curled tendril at front.

Retro Scarf French Roll

A French roll gets a groovy upgrade when accessorized with a printed headscarf. A gently twirled bun pinned flat atop a near twist is made playful with an extra long scarf knotted to hang down the back.

Textured French Roll

While the classic French roll hair is all about a glossy, polished finish, there's something to be said for executing the updo with romantically rough texture. Combining the roll with the insouciant appeal of a messy bun makes the style something both accessible and elevated.

Locs French Roll

Should your locs be too long and thick for a claw clip, a pinned French roll offers a similar (and somewhat chicer) styling option.