Cooking
No fussy rolling or dough cutting required: Just scrape the soft batter into boiling, salted water with a spoon for perfect, pillowy free-form dumplings.
Sometimes I bring home a kabocha, my favorite pumpkin, and split it open using a cleaver and a rubber-tipped hammer. I scoop out the seeds and put the halves face down on a Silpat-lined sheet pan to roast in a 400-degree oven for about an hour. When they’re done and cool enough to handle, I scrape the soft flesh from the collapsed halves into my food processor and blitz it into a smooth purée, snacking on any particularly meaty kabocha skin scraps. That purée goes into the fridge, ready for any pumpkin recipes I might want to make that week.
And sometimes I just pick up a can of pumpkin, because it’s good and cheap and doesn’t require said cleaver and hammer.
Either way, having some pumpkin purée on hand gets you one-seventh of the way to these pillowy pumpkin dumplings with brown butter and Parmesan, a new recipe from Carolina Gelen. Reminiscent of spaetzle, gnudi or galuska, these free-form dumplings consist of pumpkin purée, eggs, Parmesan and flour; a bit of nutmeg plants them squarely in Autumntown. The soft batter is scraped into boiling, salted water with a spoon; no fussy rolling or cutting is required. In sum: Get pumpkin, make pumpkin dumplings.
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Pumpkin Dumplings With Brown Butter and Parmesan
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We’ve entered the part of the year when I try to keep potatoes on hand, stashing a bag of cute little Yukon golds next to my onions. With a package of skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs and a bunch of scallions, I basically have Kay Chun’s punchy sheet-pan chicken with potatoes, scallions and capers. The punch comes from those capers, plus a healthy squeeze of lemon.
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