Home Food A Hollywood Remake of Your Fast Food Memories

A Hollywood Remake of Your Fast Food Memories

by белый

critic’s notebook

In Los Angeles, the restaurant Chain taps into a feverish nostalgia for burgers and pizza from the 20th century.

Tejal Rao, Food’s critic at large, recently revisited Pizza Hut and its personal pan pizzas only to find that they’d changed, or she had.

The air smelled of yeast and cheese and weed, and though what I had in front of me looked like a personal pan pizza from Pizza Hut, it was in fact a more expensive dupe.

Some of the original pizza’s flaws had been airbrushed and overwritten, as in a favorite childhood memory. No veins of raw dough, no discouraging sweat of vegetable oil.

The best qualities of the original were exaggerated in a buttery, gold-washed bottom and a fine, crackly edge, draped with a light brown confetti of cheese. The puff and fluff of the dough were doubled, bubbly and weightless.

See also
Very Delicious Vegetarian Eating

What’s hard to explain is why this pizza — this impostor pizza — felt more like a Pizza Hut pizza than the source material.

The chef Tim Hollingsworth made it for what he called “Pizza Haute,” one of the meticulous themed dinners he cooks at Chain in Los Angeles, a regular pop-up that considers American fast food with an almost scholarly attention, exalting the genre with rigorous cooking and presentation.

A Hollywood Remake of Your Fast Food Memories

Thank you for your patience while we verify access.

You may also like