Home Food The Coolest Menu Item at the Moment Is … Cabbage?

The Coolest Menu Item at the Moment Is … Cabbage?

by белый

This stolid supporting player has slowly risen to a starring role in creative restaurants across the country. Some diners, though, may need a little coaxing.

Kim Severson ate cabbage in Los Angeles, New York and Atlanta for this story.

If I were a vegetable, I would hire cabbage’s brand manager.

Cabbage has spent an eternity as the workhorse of the stir-fry and the braise, the quiet companion to endless duck legs and pulled pork sandwiches. It never complained, even when boiled with corned beef or shoved into a crock for months.

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But today, a vegetable that can make your house smell like a 19th-century tenement is the darling of the culinary crowd.

Leaves of purple cabbage have been enlisted to swaddle mapo tofu at Poltergeist, the current culinary fascination in Los Angeles. At Superiority Burger in New York City, cabbage gently enrobes sticky rice studded with tofu and braised mushrooms.

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Fancy dishes that cast cabbage in a leading role have been popular on the coasts for some time, but they’re now making their way onto menus across the country. At Good Hot Fish in Asheville, N.C., shredded green cabbage stars in a pancake punched up with sorghum hot sauce. In Denver, Sap Sua sprinkles a charred wedge with anchovy breadcrumbs. Cabbage is bathed in brown-butter hollandaise at Gigi’s Italian Kitchen in Atlanta.

The Coolest Menu Item at the Moment Is … Cabbage?

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