Cooking
Sohla El-Waylly’s recipe is about as far from Thanksgiving as you can get. And on the Sunday after Thanksgiving, that’s exactly what’s required.
Good morning. There are still leftovers in the refrigerator, but the house is quiet for the first time in a while, and it’s fine to ignore them. You’ve prepared many variations on the Thanksgiving meal already — first as a feast, then as sandwiches, soups and gumbos — and now it’s time to throw a changeup and make sure no one around here gets bored.
For that, it’s hard to do better than Sohla El-Waylly’s recipe for sardine pasta puttanesca (above), which takes a standard puttanesca and supercharges it with sardines packed in oil and cherry tomatoes in place of the usual canned tomatoes. I like it best with bucatini, sturdy and thick against the slippery pilchards, the salty olives, capers and anchovies, all the garlic and red pepper flakes, the sweet pop of those tomatoes tying everything together into a poem about the Tyrrhenian Sea.
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Sardine Pasta Puttanesca
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It’s a dish that’s about as far from Thanksgiving as you can get. And on the Sunday after Thanksgiving, that’s exactly what’s required.
With that sorted, you can turn to the rest of the week. …
Monday
I love Melissa Clark’s recipe for sweet-and-spicy roasted tofu and squash both for its complexity of flavors and for the way it balances a whole bunch of textures: the velvet of the squash and the pillowy crisp of the tofu against the crunchy sesame seed garnish especially. Serve over rice or baby spinach, with plenty of hot sauce on the side.
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