Off the Menu
Melissa Rodriguez opens Crane Club in the Al Coro space, the Anton’s team take on all-day Italian at Leon’s and more.
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Opening
La Tête d’Or by Daniel
The centerpiece in the plush, bronzed and soaring dining room of Daniel Boulud’s first steakhouse is an impressive two-level grill fueled with charcoal and wood that sits in an open kitchen. Its marble counter frequently bears a display of steaks, from a tomahawk with its flying buttress bone, to compact portions of densely marbled Wagyu, all to be served with choices of butters and sauces. “I’ve always had a steak or two on my menus, but not eight or 10 like here,” Mr. Boulud said. French touches dapple the varied menu that includes sweetbreads, grilled langoustines and sundaes. The 120-seat dining room provides some more intimate areas, including an elegant bar.
318 Park Avenue South (24th Street), 212-597-9155, latetedorbydaniel.com.
Oncheon
Unlike the majority of restaurants, both new and old, this one at the edge of Koreatown offers an uncommonly serene dining room. (No disco beat.) It’s by Glow Seoul, making its debut outside South Korea, with a focus on hot springs healing and dining traditions. Slow-cooked shabu-shabu with various broths, sous-vide pork belly, seafood kimchi jeon and a layered chanhap meal box ($26) are served. Soft lighting, flowing water and natural finishes provide calm, no app needed.
312 Fifth Avenue (32nd Street), 212-268-7888, oncheonnyc.com.
Crane Club
Melissa Rodriguez, 45, has been cooking in this location for 14 years. First was at the grand Del Posto, then the short-lived Al Coro. Now, again as grand as ever, though with fewer seats (only 200) for a little more intimacy, is this partnership between her, Jeff Katz and Tao Group Hospitality. The menu is à la carte with main ingredients like lamb chops, pork, potatoes, baked clams and more, often grilled then dressed with vibrant seasonings from a global pantry. There’s a list of housemade condiments from which to choose. As for the name, the partners said that cranes have a “positive vibe”; a membership club will eventually be in the lower level. (Wednesday)
85 Tenth Avenue (16th Street), 212-970-2220, taogroup.com/venues/crane-club-new-york.
Leon’s
Just about five years since opening Anton’s in the West Village, the husband and wife team of Natalie Johnson and Nick Anderer have added this light-filled all-day Italian spot to their portfolio. The name commemorates Ms. Johnson’s great-grandfather Leon Hakim, who was from Egypt; the rice pilaf on the menu is from his wife, Lucie. Other tastes of Cairo and even touches of France (falafel, eggplant boulettes) inflect food that more broadly expresses Mr. Anderer’s passion for Southern Italy.
817 Broadway (12th Street), 646-410-2703, leonsnyc.com.
Kinjo
An industrial space said to have been a torpedo factory under the towering approaches to the Manhattan Bridge is the setting for omakase at a counter (11 courses for $95), and, in a lounge, cocktails and small plates with Asian flavors. Johnny Huang, formerly of Masa, is a partner and in charge of the sushi.
11 Adams Street (John Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn, 917-310-1532, kinjodumbo.com.
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