Cooking
Something out there, something delicious, is speaking to you. Heed its call.
Good morning. I had smoked chicken wings on the menu for dinner, a beautiful salad of sliced, salted tomatoes with a fist of burrata and some drizzled balsamic vinegar, a Black Forest sheet cake (above) for dessert. That seemed enough — the cake, especially, with its blanket of whipped cream and studdings of cherry.
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Black Forest Sheet Cake
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But there were scallops at the market, too, big fatties the color of pearls dragged up by the Shinnecock fleet south of Ponquogue on Long Island. I bought a pound in the spirit of excess and cooked them in a pan set over the grill while I was crisping the wings, searing the scallops dark on one side then flipping them over to bathe in butter with a squeeze of lime. (Here’s a recipe for that.)
The result was revelatory — summer in a pan, the very best thing I ate all week — and a reminder that this is the season to trust your instincts when it comes to preparing your meals. If an ingredient speaks to you at the food store, at the farm stand, at the fishmonger’s or the butcher shop, buy it. Revel in the joy it provides. It might be the first corn of the season, the second run of zucchini, a tangle of blue crabs fresh from the bay. Something out there, something delicious, is speaking to you. Heed its call.
This weekend, that might be swordfish for piccata or eggplant to glaze with gochujang and serve with fried scallions. It could be a tomato and pomegranate salad, an exemplary gin and tonic or perhaps a crunchy Vietnamese cabbage salad with pan-seared tofu. You could bake scones for breakfast. You could whiz up some gazpacho for lunch, a platter of seekh kebabs with mint chutney for dinner. Then, perhaps, a dessert of ice cream with olive oil and dates, if, like me, the nice olive oil you used on the tomatoes is speaking to you. (If it’s not, consider a Coke float!)
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