Off the Menu
Jungsik Yim and his executive chef, Jun Hee Park, serve Thai pork links with sticky rice, and fried chicken with som tum and zabb spices.
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Opening
SEA
Do not think crabmeat and cod because the name means Southeast Asia. You’ll find Thai pork links with sticky rice, fried chicken with som tum and zabb spices, razor clams with morning glory, and scrumptious St. Louis ribs, Frenched so they’re easily grasped. Jungsik Yim, whose 13-year old Jungsik, in TriBeCa, takes a creative approach to his native Korean food and has pushed the boundaries further here, based on his travels. The executive chef, Jun Hee Park, also comes from Jungsik. Raw wood and green accents define the space. Next year, SEA Lab, with an open kitchen and a 15-seat counter, will open downstairs for special dinners. (Opens Wednesday)
151 West 30th Street, 646-449-0904, ny-sea.com.
Cocina Consuelo
During Covid, the married couple Karina Garcia and Lalo Rodriguez lost their jobs in 2020, hers at Eleven Madison Park and his at Cosme. With time on their hands they visited his family in Puebla, Mexico, and started selling tacos from their apartment in Hamilton Heights, where Ms. Garcia grew up. They expanded the menu, began doing dinners and now they’ve opened a restaurant in the neighborhood, a bright blue storefront where the home-style cooking, including Ms. Garcia’s signature bone marrow with beef and tortillas, and Mr. Rodriguez’s family recipe for jalapeños stuffed with tuna. Ms. Garcia said that chiles en nogada are coming soon.
130 Hamilton Place (143rd Street), 646-250-7172, cocinaconsuelonyc.com.
Odre
Hand Hospitality has brought the chef Changki Kang under its umbrella with his take on home-style Korean fare in a setting designed by his wife, Songyi Lee, where simmering cauldrons of rice and soup are on display. The four-course menu, $42, includes soup, banchan and choices like cuttlefish hwe with eggplant, tomato and basil oil; chicken muchin with chives, pear and cilantro in a mustard seed dressing; a shrimp jeon pancake; pork mandoo dumplings; and monkfish steamed, torched and served with gochugaru sauce. The space is also decorated with Korean crafts.
199 Second Avenue (13th Street), 646-484-6950, odrenyc.com.
Phoenix Palace
The décor at Potluck Club, a modern take on Cantonese food in Chinatown, suggests a movie theme. At its new Chinatown sibling, also riffing on Cantonese American, it’s music. Cory Ng, one of five partners, all Chinese American, called it “another expression of our souls.” He said the atmosphere is moodier and the food more Cantonese with an emphasis on seafood, noting dishes like lobster sticky rice and scallops with vermicelli.
85 Bowery (Hester Street), phoenixpalaceny.com.
La Taq
In 1989 The Original California Taqueria, a street cart, was ahead of the pack. The owner, Martin Medina, from California, expanded to several storefronts, including a popular one in Park Slope, Brooklyn. To the neighborhood’s dismay he closed it in 2011. He’s now reopened it next door to the original space, with 24 seats and burritos, carnitas and tacos, and with Louis Barricelli, who owns Cousin John’s Cafe & Bakery next door, as his business partner.
70 Seventh Avenue (Berkeley Place), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-398-3333, lataq.com.
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