No liner or mascara necessary.
Last night at Dior's pre-fall 2024 show in Brooklyn, makeup artist Peter Philips kept the beauty look clean and minimal, pulling focus to a soft, red wine-stained lip.
For Philips, striking the right balance began with subtly defining eyes using only a touch of eyeshadow. "[Dior creative director] Maria Grazia wanted a nude eye, so [the look] becomes more boyish," Philips told InStyle backstage at the show. To achieve it, he curled the lashes, skipped mascara, and used a dark brown or black eyeshadow (depending on the model) to tightline along the lower lash line.
"I take a flat brush and push it into the roots of the lashes," he explained. "It makes your lashes look fuller without using mascara. It's not an eyeliner — it's just something in between."
The effect is nearly undetectable, noted Philips, who has served as the brand’s creative and image director for a decade. “It’s a difference that you see when you do one eye, but once you do both, it looks like there’s no makeup,” he said. The eyes were framed by equally natural-looking brows using the Diorshow On Set Brow and the Diorshow Brow Styler. “Eyebrows are nicely drawn, controlled, [and] elongated a bit, but we kept the natural feeling to it so it was still glam,” said Philips.
With clean skin and eyes lightly defined, lips took center stage. During the spring 2024 show last fall, Grazia decided to do a lip look for the first time and requested a dark black pout. This time around, she wanted a softer, more aubergine feel. Philips used the Dior Rouge Forever lipstick in shades 111 Forever Night and 670 Rose Blues to craft a pitch-perfect hue.
To apply the lipstick, Philips dusted the color over the lip line for a not-so-perfect, diffused effect. "I used an eye brush, took a bit of lipstick, and just brushed it on," he said. The result? An ever-so-cool touch that evoked confidence. "This era of the Dior woman is a continuity of the strong woman," said Philips.