Cooking
Use Eric Kim’s new recipe for Atlanta-style oven-fried hot wings, sharp and fiery, salty and crisp.
Good morning. You’ll sometimes hear that you can’t make proper chicken wings in the oven, that the only true wing is deep-fried.
This is nonsense. Deep-fried chicken wings are awesome, and a good reason to go to a bar that serves them to watch football while you eat. But you can make superior chicken wings at home, in the oven, and ought to. Each time you do, you’ll make them slightly better than you did the time before. You’ll develop a chicken-wing style.
That’s the Saturday night forecast, then: wings. You can start with the Buffalo classic if you like, but I’m turning south for Eric Kim’s Atlanta hot wings (above), sharp and fiery, salty and crisp. He uses a dusting of baking powder and salt to enhance the crustiness of the skin, and a combination of cayenne pepper, onion and garlic powders in the sauce to deliver heat against the acidity of lemon juice. For those raised on butter and Frank’s, it’s a revelation. Serve with batons of carrots and celery, and plenty of blue cheese or ranch dressing.
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Oven Fried Hot Wings
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Other wingish possibilities, delicious for lunch as they are for dinner: Buffalo cauliflower; Chinese mustard wings; Buffalo salmon; spicy, lacquered chicken wings; chicken wings with gochujang, ginger and garlic.
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