The Veggie
Eat them roasted on a sheet pan with chili powder and topped with quick-pickled red onion, or tossed with a tangy mix of chile crisp, tamari and honey.
My mother loves to say, “What’s old is new again.” My wide-leg jeans? My Danish teak furniture? She’s seen it all before. One could say the same of my eating habits. I’ll feverishly fixate on a dish, only for it to fall out of personal favor a month or two later. But, much like in fashion, I’ll cycle back to it years later, seeking the comfort and familiarity of my own bygone eras.
Still, I was caught off guard this week by a craving for my Sweet Potato Hash of 2015. As a recent college graduate sharing a kitchen with six (yes, six) roommates, I’d routinely — and quickly — sauté diced sweet potato, red bell pepper and onion, generously season the hash with cumin and ground cayenne, and top it with a fried egg before retreating to my tiny room.
I’m different now: older, undoubtedly; wiser, debatable. But I’m wise enough to recognize the genius of Ali Slagle’s sweet potato hash with tofu, which features my preferred cast of characters dressed with a little bit of chili powder, quick-pickled raw onion and cilantro or parsley (or both). I historically prepared The Hash in a cast-iron skillet, but Ali smartly uses a sheet pan here for a more hands-off approach. What’s old is new, baby.
Sweet Potato Hash With Tofu
View this recipe.
The combination of sweet potato and tofu is a satisfying one — filling, budget-friendly and versatile. Melissa Clark’s crisp tofu with sweet potatoes, another sheet-pan number, takes on a slightly different flavor profile: A mixture of tamari (or soy sauce), honey (or maple syrup, for a vegan swap) and rice vinegar is used as both a marinade for the tofu and a final sauce for the dish. Rather than dicing everything, Melissa cuts the potatoes into wedges and the tofu into planks for some nice fork-and-knife eating.
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